Lowes house wrap vs tyvek

Log in or Sign up. Housewrap - Tyvec vs. We are getting the wood siding on our house replaced with hardie-plank. For the housewrap under the siding we have the option of using Tyvec or Low-E wrap - is one necessarily better than the other? The siding covers the back of our one story house and is on the gables on either side of our house starting where the attic begins.

DippyHornMar 7, I have no direct knowledge, but I seem to recall hearing that Tyvec is related to mold problems. Maybe Nick or CBS will be along to comment. BigWillMar 7, DippyHornMar 8, I don't think I've ever seen anything other than Tyvec. BigWillMar 8, It's a wind barrier if installed correctly. It can help reduce your electric bills by reducing drafts.

Counting on it to do much else is optimistic, and I've had some builders tell me they prefer felt or foam board these days. DannyAlmonteMar 9, That's funny you mention Tom Tynan. What is it you don't like about him? The poster above is correct.

Tyvek was not intended to be a vapor barrier, yet a lot of builders use it that way. Tyvek is intended to take care of a problem that normal felt paper is not as useful for and that's wind leaks.

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Tyvek is more an energy savings material while felt paper is a vapor barrier. It seems to me that an extra layer of felt paper would do the same as having one layer of felt paper and one layer of Tyvek. Low-E Housewrap does a completely different thing - it reflects radiant heat.

So, it's hard to compare it with both felt paper and Tyvek - they all do different things. How old is the house? I can make a better recommendation if I know a little more about what you're working with. The house is in Houston and is 42 years old. I have no idea what's under the current wood siding.

lowes house wrap vs tyvek

The guy replacing the siding just said that they usually put tyvec behind the hardie plank but asked if we wanted low-e housewrap - I assume he meant "instead" of Tyvec. DippyHornMar 9, Tyvac can cause alot of problems depending on where the water exposure is from Inside the wall, Tyvac is a nightmare, you will have a mold issue. Felt will breath.

IMO, you lose marginal energy thru the walls and think Tyvac is a waste of money. Have them put some Bithuthane around the windows and you are good to go or buy some decent windowsForgot your Password?

lowes house wrap vs tyvek

We welcome your comments and suggestions. All information is provided "AS IS. All rights reserved. You may freely link to this site, and use it for non-commercial use subject to our terms of use. View our Privacy Policy here. Toggle navigation Cancel. Log in. Remember Me? Login with Facebook Log in. Forgot Password? New Posts. Today's Posts. Community Member List. Forum Actions Mark Forums Read. Quick Links View Forum Leaders. Let's talk building wrap Thread Tools.

OK, I know there's been a lot of discussion out there about Typar vs Tyvek and which is better. I'd certainly like input on this as I myself have heard convincing arguments for either depending on what criteria is used. I will however throw one additional product in the mix to confuse this matter further. Let me put this in context for the purpose of this discussion I'm about to build a stick-frame shed that absolutely has to get done before it gets really cold or I wont be able to empty my garage to work on my motorcycle over the winter.

Thus I need to leave building wrap on it. Next year, I'll be re-siding the second story of my house and doing it myself, there will be longer periods with only the building wrap as protection before I can get the siding on. I'm all about spending a few more bucks to protect my investment But is Typar or Tyvek just that, or just a waste of money when I could buy this Lowes product? I've only ever used Typar but I'm open to options. I have no experience with anything else with which to compare it.

Certainly I would take fewer risks with my house than I would my shed But don't want the shed to rot out either. Home Hardware has a product called "Housewrap" but priced the same as the Typar and Tyvek I figured I'd leave it out of this discussion. View Public Profile. Find all posts by TorontoJoe. Received 33 Votes on 30 Posts. Hi Joe, I have not done the research, but experience with both ty products says don't leave them exposed for long periods of time. Any area that flexes with the wind will become useless as a rain barrier.Forgot your Password?

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Forgot Password? New Posts. Today's Posts. Community Member List. Forum Actions Mark Forums Read. Quick Links View Forum Leaders. Should I replace the Lowe's house wrap I just installed with Tyvek?

Thread Tools. I'm redoing my exterior siding and had some Lowe's house wrap lying around that I wanted to use up.

Unfortunately, I came up short and needed to go buy more. It wasn't until I saw the price difference between Home Depot's Everbuilt brand and Tyvek that I searched the differences and found out how terrible cheaper Tyvek alternatives are.

Let's talk building wrap...

I bought real Tyvek wrap and I'm thinking of tearing all of the Lowe's wrap down and replacing it with Tyvek. It wasn't a very big section of the house maybe sq ft minus a regular and bay window and a door. Before doing that though, I wanted to double check that it's really the best way to go.

If it matters I'm planning on putting some sort of wood siding possibly cedar shingles. View Public Profile.InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. Frequently-asked questions, and answers, about installing housewrap, air barriers, water barriers, "vapor barriers" on building walls. This article series discusses of the need for external vapor barriers beneath vinyl, siding - building code requirements, interpretation, and home inspection concerns.

In retrofit construction the housewrap is brought over the window or door trim but trimmed short so it won't stick out ugly past the ultimate cap flashing or side or j flashing around the opening.

In both of those cases we rely on proper installation of flashing tape around the window or door to keep water out where it belongs. Thanks again so much, that was an amazing amount of info. I think I understand that this is a product that does what it is designed to do and I should not be worried about it per say.

The more important part is the installation process. Right now they are overlapping anywhere from 2" to 2 feet held down with nails and orange "washer".

Also, it has started to rain, pour really, and they have not finished so everything is now wet, concernS?? On by mod - Effectiveness of plastic housewrap and EverBilt housewrap - opinions. Thanks for the follow-up: I hadn't considered remarking on Everbilt house wrap itself.

Everbilt is a 4. It's basically polyetyhlene, "a tough, light, flexible synthetic resin made by polymerizing ethylene, chiefly used for plastic bags, food containers, and other packaging. This is the most-widely used plastic, probably, in the world. Exceptional water vapor transmission: allow moisture to escape without condensing in the wall cavities-preventing mold and mildew not to mention that there is no mildew in buildings, mildew only grows on living plants, but that's another gripe.

I don't have a perm rating yet but 6 mil polyethylene has a perm rating of about 0. That would explain why, if I guess right, the product is micro-perforated to let it breathe moisture vapor out while keeping actual water out. More important than the house wrap material is probably how it is installed.

Most of the leak problems I've seen in years of field research, including siding tear-off inspections, have been from improperly-installed wraps: overlapped the wrong way, cuts and tears, omissions, and worst: improper detailing, lapping, sealing, flashing around the wall penetrations for windows, doors, lights, etc.

Thanks very much. What about that product? I had a neighbor take a look and tell me that the Everbuilt was not good and should not be used. The builder is using Norandex Wrap on another part of the house, it looks like he ran out so he got the Everbuilt.

I am having old fake stucco replaced with hardi board. The contractor has removed the stucco, left on the tar paper barrier and placed a vapor barrier Everbuilt sold a Home Depot on top of it, is this correct? Dale, I don't know your situation, but basically if you're tearing off all of the siding, the cost to tear off and replace old moldy really? Besides you'd be replacing the material with one that works better.

I have fungus stains on tar paper underlayment where I am replacing the siding should I clean, treat or replace it?Posted by Green Builder Staff. This is the formidable task given to housewraps, and increasingly to roof underlayments. Housewrapa common type of weather-resistive barrier WRBis installed between the cladding layer and the sheathing, while roofing underlayments go directly under shingles or other roofing material, forming a second line of defense against the elements.

In the past, tar paper, now called felt, was the go-to product for roofs and walls, and in fact, many builders still swear by it.

Felt has undergone an evolution over the decades. The product originally consisted of fabric or paper impregnated with tar, and used to be much heavier.

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It traditionally comes in three-foot-wide rolls, making installation somewhat labor-intensive. For walls, some builders prefer building paper—kraft paper saturated with asphalt—especially for stucco applications. Other companies eschew the woven fabric in favor of spun fibers that are bonded together.

Tyvek, which has almost become a generic term for housewrap, is a good example of this second type. More stringent energy codes are driving some of these innovations; in addition, the use of rigid foam exterior insulation has sparked competition for insulated housewraps.

BlueskinVP is a peel-and-stick, tri-laminate polypropylene wrap that was introduced to the market in It can be applied to plywood, OSB, wood, concrete block, steel, aluminum and galvanized metal. Because it requires no fasteners, it greatly reduces the number of penetrations through which air and water can potentially flow. However, it also states its limitations: the membrane must be rolled after application to ensure adhesion to substrate and laps, and it may not stick well in colder temperatures below 40 degrees.

TYVEK house wrap vs. EVERBILT

Fortifiber offers two grades of housewraps, one for residential, the other for commercial-grade applications. The chart above gives specifics about the differences between the two high-tech products.

Non-insulated six-inch flaps at the start and bottom of each roll allow vertical and horizontal seams to be installed shingle-style, reducing the potential for bulk water infiltration into the wall assembly.

This is a clear advantage over rigid exterior insulation products. Tyvek is a continuous non-woven, non-perforated sheet made by spinning extremely fine continuous high-density polyethylene HDPE fibers, which are fused together to form a strong uniform web. The fibrous structure is engineered to create millions of extremely small pores that resist bulk water and air penetration, while allowing moisture vapor to pass through.

This newest offering from Tamlyn claims that it removes at least times more bulk water from a wall, compared to standard housewraps. Spacers measuring 1.

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It can be installed in any direction.Choosing the best house wrap is a short-term decision that can have significant long-term effects.

Effective air and water holdout can contribute to both structural durability and energy efficiency, while the optimal level of vapor permeability can allow walls to dry more quickly if water does get in, to help prevent mold and rot. But a closer look at the material science inside each product, and the resulting performance comparison tells a different story.

The leading perforated wraps on the market today are made of a coarse, woven polypropylene slit film. This weave structure is inherently poor for resisting air and water infiltration. To address this weakness, a thin polypropylene film coating is added to seal the breaches and lock the weave in place.

But solving one problem only creates another. The result is essentially a non-breathable vapor barrier, which is not desirable for a house wrap.

These holes do allow a certain amount of moisture vapor to pass through. This is the perennial dilemma of perforated house wraps: there is always a trade-off between air resistance and water resistance on one hand, and moisture vapor permeability on the other.

So instead of holes, it creates a fibrous structure with millions of tiny pores that are extremely effective at holding out bulk water and air penetration, while allowing moisture vapor to pass through. Material science is persuasive in choosing the best house wrap, but nothing is more important than performance. This measure is a significant indicator of building envelope effectiveness. The same testing also revealed a considerable difference in comparative moisture vapor transmission.

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This is significant because preventing air infiltration in the wall cavity is a key factor in allowing insulation to perform to its installed R-value. And insulation that performs effectively can reduce the long-term energy costs of heating and cooling the home.

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lowes house wrap vs tyvek

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We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. The requirement for water or rain barrier on building walls: this article discusses of the need for external vapor barriers beneath vinyl, siding - building code requirements, interpretation, and home inspection concerns.

lowes house wrap vs tyvek

Discussed here: Leaks into vinyl-sided building. Code Requirements for Building Wrap. Sheathing Wrap Performance Measures. Water Resistance of Housewraps. Air Infiltration of Housewraps. Performance Table for Housewraps. Can the Vapor Barrier be Omitted?

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We include photographs and sketches of vinyl siding installation procedures and of common defects observed in vinyl exterior building siding, such as buckling, splitting, cracks, odors, and questions about the need for a vapor barrier behind vinyl siding and over building sheathing.

Our page top photo shows significant leak stains on and into a building exterior wall where wind has blown vinyl siding off of this 's townhouse in Bellmawr, New Jersey.

Our siding leak photo left shows a typical source of concentrated water running down, onto, and into vinyl siding on a 's home in Pawling, New York. Certain types of siding consisting of large sheets or panels will perform this function, eliminating the need for sheathing paper.

Choosing the Best House Wrap

This requirement applies to siding such as that commonly used on mobile homes but does not apply to siding installed in strips which is intended to simulate the appearance of a lapped wood siding.

Such material does not act as a substitute for sheathing paper since it incorporates provision for venting the wall cavity and has many joints. The page top photograph shows that a lot of water, more than you might guess, may be running over the surface of building exterior siding, vinyl, aluminum, wood, anything. Where high volumes of water run down siding, leaks into the building windows or walls are possible, leading to costly hidden damage such as from rot, mold, or insects.

If we add the effects of wind pushing rain against a building these effects are increased still further. The pair of photographs shown just above make clear that a lot of water was running on the exterior of this particular building, in this case due to an improper roof flashing and gutter design that combined a large volume of roof runoff falling into a gutter that leaks against the building. At this unfortunate and new vinyl-sided home where workmanship was not the best, the leaky gutter and wet wall finally send water into a low area beneath a deck where water, trapped against the building wall, is likely to eventually find its way into the building basement.

As you can see from our horrible vinyl siding trouble at left Portland, Maineleaks may occur in vinyl siding for a wide range of reasons, including structural movement, bending, and breaking. The building at above left asks more of the vinyl siding than the product can be expected to deliver. Wet walls, wet basement, and hidden damage are the risks here.


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